BHAKTAPUR
Bhaktapur, the “Ancient city of Asia” was previously known as “Bhatgaon”.
“Bhat” means rice and “gaon” means village. Since the occupation
of the natives were agriculture and rice was cultivated in a
large percentage the place was so called as Bhatgaon. These days
Bhatgaon has been replaced by Bhaktapur which literally means
the “city of devotees”. “Bhakta” means devotee and “pur” means
place or city. Bhaktapur is shaped like a “conch-shell” and is
surrounded all over by Hanumanthe River. It is a small city
within an area of 6.88 sq. km which lies 14 km east of
Kathmandu. It is the linking city between Kathmandu and Nagarkot
and Kathmandu and Changu Narayan. One can enter the city through
many places. The main entrance is from the gate located near the
parking area of the city. At the entrance, there are ancient
water spouts and shelters which were originally designed for the
traders in ancient days. On the way to the main city, there is a
small temple built in a Fig tree. Fig is a rare tree which is
not found in every part of the world. The specialty of this tree
is it never dies, but these days they are being less in numbers.
So it’s a good thing that one can still see these rare trees in
Nepal and inside the Kathmandu Valley Itself.
Bhaktapur was founded in the 12th century by King Ananda Dev
Malla and was designed in a form of a courtyard. The city was
surrounded with tall walls so it is also called as “Walled
city”. The basic purpose of building up walls was to protect the
citizens and the city from enemies and intruders. When the city
was planned, it was designed in a religious way. Eight Mother
Goddesses - Asta Matrika were installed on eight geometrical
corners of the city for the divine protection.
Bhaktapur is renowned for its unique traditions, colorful
culture, fabulous festivals, stupendous arts and architecture
and typical Newari lifestyle. Despite of continual invasions and
natural calamity of 1934, Bhaktapur is still rich in arts on
account of its majestic temples, monasteries and alluring
palaces. The major population inside the city is of Newar
community and a very less inhabited by the Bahun, Chettris and
Shudra. The typical occupation of the people are Pottery making,
weaving and farming which are still practiced in the same old
manner passed through the generations since medieval eras.
The major attraction of Bhaktapur is the Bhaktapur Durbar
Square. It is an incredible and beautiful example of Nepali
craftsmanship. The main entrance to the Durbar Square is from
the Lion Gate, which was built during the reign of King
Bhuptindra Malla. The precincts of the Durbar Square is more
spacious and less crowded with temples. Once the precincts of
the square were massed with numbers of temples, but the great
earthquake of 1934 destroyed most of the temples, monuments and
even the 99courtyards of the Royal Palace. Near the Lion Gate,
there are marvelous temples of Lord Rameshwor, Lord Badrinath,
Lord Krishna and Lord Shiva. The major attractions of the square
are the Royal Palace, the Palace with 55 windows and the Golden
Gate carved with the images of Goddess Durga. These artifacts
are the incredible examples of ancient architecture. Infront of
the palace with 55 windows and the Golden gate, there is a
statue of King Bhuptindra Malla in the act of worshipping, which
is mounted on a stone pillar. This is one of the finest example
of arts and sculptures of Nepal. The Golden Gate is the main
entrance to the Palace with 55 windows, a three-storied edifice
built during the reign of King Bhuptindra Malla with
mind-blowing beautiful carved windows. The walls are decorated
with terracotta pattern and the top story is surrounded by
carved wooden balcony. The building displays the skills in
carpentry and wood –carving.
The Royal Palace of Bhaktapur was built approximately 600 years
ago by King Yakcha Malla with altogether 99 courtyards. But the
disastrous incident of 1934 badly damaged this site. Though the
palace was renovated it could not exactly match up with the
original design. But still the Palace looks very beautiful
embracing its ancient artistic jewels. Now there are only 7
courtyards in the palace premises and the palace has been
transformed into a school for the local children.
Other main attractions of the Square are Mul Chowk, Taleju Chowk,
Kumari Bahal, Sundari Chowk, Kamal Pokhari – the Royal Bath,
Chyasilin Mandap, Siddhi Lakshmi Temple, Fasidega Temple,
Pashupati temple – replica of original Pashupatinath temple of
Kathmandu and is one of the oldest temples of the valley,
Taduchen Bahal – oldest monastery which has now been converted
into a series a shops, Terracotta temple, Yakchashwore temple,
Golden spout, Chardham, Stone temple of Batsala devi, Bell of
Barking Dogs.
Chardham is believed to be the great pilgrimage for Hindus.
People visit Chardham to preach their sins, but the Chardham was
only in India and due to transportation problem it was difficult
to go to India to pay a visit to the deities. So the clever King
built the Chardham here itself.
The stone temple of Batsala devi is built on a square base
whereas every temple of Durbar Square is built perfectly on
rectangular bases. It is a beautiful temple surmounted by the
carvings. Infront of the temple, we can see a huge bell called
Taleju Bell. This bell was rung to worship the goddess and was
even rung in ancient days to announce the curfew. A bell is
erected in the plinth of the temple, which is popularly known as
the Bell of barking dogs or Khicha Khwon Gawn in Newari
language. According to the natives whenever this bell was tolled
the local dogs started barking. Nowadays the bell is chained and
locked.
The other attractions of Bhaktapur are Pottery Square,
Dattatraya Square and Nyatapola Square. As pottery is one of the
main occupations of the Bhaktapurians, there is a “Pottery
Square” in the city. This courtyard is also famous as “Pottery
Courtyard”. One can observe the potters working with clay with
the aid of the wheels to make beautiful mud pots. Pot making is
an interesting art. In ancient days, the locals used to make
pots and visit mountains for trading. Tourism basically
developed in Bhaktapur because of trade. Shelters known as Pati
according to the local dialect and waterspouts were built for
traders since there was no accommodation system as hotels and
lodges during those days. People used to leave certain space at
the ground floor for lodging purpose so that the locals could
promote their trade. The same pattern could be observed at
present too but people use these spaces for their own household
purposes. The master plan of this courtyard was designed some
800 years ago but one can still see people practicing the same
old plan. There are two temples in potter’s square; Vishnu
temple and Jeth Ganesh temple.
Bhaktapur city was designed in a religious way. The alleys were
designed in a form of a circle and the stone paved road was
designed to lead the way to the religious places. Following this
way you can reach to different temples of Bhaktapur and can even
observe the housing plan of Bhaktapur. Tall houses are built
inside the city and small houses upto 2 storied are built
outside the city. There are two reasons behind this;
1. the citizens were reorganized according to the caste system
on the basis of their jobs by King Jayasthiti Malla. The lower
caste people were secluded and were commanded to live outside
the town whereas the high caste people were allowed to live
inside the town and were even allowed to build tall houses.
2. the other reason was the King wanted sunlight to reach all
houses. Therefore, the houses were built in a zigzag way, which
let all houses to face the sunlight. The small houses outside
the city didn't’t opaque the sunrays. This zigzag system had
another significance too. It let every house to observe the
festival or activities going in the city that passed making its
way through them.
The system can be seen today also which makes you feel that you
are still in the medieval era. The major community is of Hindus
however, few Muslims and Buddhists also reside in the city
revealing unique example of different ethnic group living
hand-in-hand though possessing different religion, origin and
cultures. Thus, one can find few Masjit or Mosques and statues
of Lord Buddha in the vicinity of Bhaktapur.
In accordance with the history, Muslims were actually invited by
King Ratna Malla since Muslims used to manufacture glass bangles
and beads known as Pote in Nepali language. Bangles and Pote are
the auspicious accessories of a married Hindu woman and these
are the important accessories used in the wedding ceremony. It
is believed that if the wife puts on Sindoor, an auspicious
vermilion powder (only used by married women), wears glass
bangles and pote, it will keep her husband healthy and live
longer.
Bhaktapur has many ancient artifacts and the city system or the
lifestyle of the natives is still conventional. Thus, this city
will teach you many important aspects of Nepalese history.
Temples, monuments, palaces, manmade ponds or reservoirs etc all
possessing historical significance.
There are many manmade ponds or the reservoirs in Bhaktapur.
These were constructed for water supply purposes especially
drinking and drainage purpose so that people did not have to go
farther to bring water as there was no water supply to
individual houses as on these days. Another reason was as all
the houses were made up of woods or woods were massively used
while building a house and perhaps they could catch fire very
easily, so in order to protect the houses from fire these
reservoirs were made. Altogether there are twelve ponds in the
city. The city plan was total, complete and perfectly
independent though it was made on the remote days. One of the
ponds’ name is Nyatapola pokhari or Mirror pond as the image of
Nyatapola temple is clearly reflected on the water of the pond.
These ponds are still used by the locals though water supply is
provided in most of the houses.
Another stupendous product of Bhaktapur city is the ‘Peacock
Window’, the most well known wood carving of Nepal. It is placed
in the Pujari Math, which was built by King Yakcha Malla. The
Peacock Window was presented to our King and Queen as a wedding
gift by the Germans in 1973 during the inauguration function of
‘Renovation project of Pujari Math’. The Pujari Math has been
now converted into National Museum of wood carving.
The road down the Pujari Math leads towards an old temple of
Lord Vishnu named as Adka Narayan temple. ‘Adka’ means trapped.
The sculpture of Lord Vishnu is actually placed as if the deity
was trapped. This temple bears a historical importance, as it is
approximately 600 years old. In the precincts of the temple you
can see old ladies making cotton threads out of bulk cotton with
the aid of wooden wheels. With these cotton threads they prepare
wicks – dhup or batti in Nepali, which is used for worshipping
the deities. The Adka Narayan temple lies outside the main town.
The road down the Pujari Math leads towards an old temple of
Lord Vishnu named as Adka Narayan temple. ‘Adka’ means trapped.
The sculpture of Lord Vishnu is actually placed as if the deity
was trapped. This temple bears a historical importance, as it is
approximately 600 years old. In the precincts of the temple you
can see old ladies making cotton threads out of bulk cotton with
the aid of wooden wheels. With these cotton threads they prepare
wicks – dhup or batti in Nepali, which is used for worshipping
the deities. The Adka Narayan temple lies outside the main town.
Following the road ahead of Adka Narayan, you can march to
Dattatraya Square, which lies in Tachupal tole. The square is
named after Dattatraya temple. It is a 600 years old temple
designed in pagoda style. The pillars and struts of the temple
are made up of wood and bear beautiful carvings. At the main
entrance of the temple there are two identical statues of
wrestlers who are called as temple guardians. In front of the
temple, a figure of Garuda is mounted on a column in the act of
worshipping the god. You can see the statue of Dattatraya
viewing outside from the temple’s first floor’s window. It is
said that Dattatraya is a tantrik – black magician and he is the
son of Lord Vishnu and Shiva. In the periphery of Dattatraya
Square, there are other monasteries, replica of peacock window,
Bhimsen temple and a platform. All the temples are built on
perfectly rectangular bases, however, the Bhimsen temple does
not have a rectangular base. It is said that Bhimsen is not a
god rather a human being, therefore, his statue is placed in the
first floor of the temple whereas the other statues of other
gods are installed in the ground floor itself.
The right side of the Bhimsen temple leads to the main street or
the highway of the city . On the way to the main city, there is a
temple known as Nhasa Dya meaning “God of Music”. As music does
not possess any shape and size, as it is intangible, the temple
does not bear any statue representing the god rather it has
three holes resembling the gods, as music also comes from hollow
objects. Bhaktapur is famous for its traditional dances and
typical Newari music – the precious Nepalese culture and wonders
for the tourists.
Following the street negotiating through the Nhasa Dya temple,
you can reach the Bhairav temple located in the Taumadhi tole.
This is a three storied, pagoda styled, 400 years old temple,
yet another fine example of Nepali architecture and artistic
grandeur, which was rebuilt after the destruction caused by the
1934’s earthquake. It has carved golden windows that make the
temple even more beautiful.
The other tremendous creation of the Nepalese craftsmen and
ancient architects in this area is the Nyatapola temple. ‘Nyata’
means five in Newari, so this literally means that the temple is
five-storied pagoda styled edifice built on a tall platform.
This is the tallest temple of Kathmandu Valley that stands 30m
from its plinth. The pillars and the struts of the temples are
constructed from the carved woods. Along the sides of the
stairway, there are identical stone statues of men holding their
weapons, elephants, lions and griffins. These are the temple
guardians. It is said that each temple guardian is ten times
stronger than the preceding ones and the goddess inside the
temple is 100 times stronger than them. This temple is dedicated
to goddess Laxmi – Goddess of Wealth. Small bells are affixed at
the edges of the roofs, which tinkle when moved by the soft
wind. Nyatapola is the only temple, which withstood the damages
caused by the earthquake of 1934. It faced only minor damages
whereas many monasteries, temples, monuments and palaces were
completely destroyed. Nyatapola temple is very famous for its
incredible workmanship.
Bhaktapur consists museums too. There are three museums in
Bhaktapur viz; the National Bronze Museum that lies within the
premises of Durbar Square, the National Art Gallery that is
located in the Palace with 55 windows and the National Wood
Carving Museum that is located in Pujari Math within the
precincts of the Dattatraya Square
The temples, monuments, monasteries, spouts are so well
maintained in Bhaktapur that it will make you feel that you are
in the medieval times itself. The sculptures, arts and the
architecture bear the artistic philosophy and are the great
embellishment of the sumptuous workmanship and craftsmanship.
The locales still following the traditions and cultures passed
through generations. You can even notice that most of the people
still wear the typical Newari dress; women wear Haku patasi
(Black saree with red border, typical Newari attire) and men
wear Daura suruwal, which reflects the charm of Newari
tradition, costumes and culture. Bhaktapur, a world heritage
site is as an atavistic city, which is a living example of the
superior art and crafts, subtle workmanship, fine architecture
and beautiful history and culture.
NAMOBHUDDA
Namobhudda, which lies between Banepa and Panauti, southeast of
Kathmandu, is a famous Buddhist pilgrimage site as wall as
favorite stopover for trekkers. It is a three hours trekking
from Dhulikhel through number of small villages. Rows of
Buddhist Stupa adorned with fluttering prayer flags are there to
soothe both devotes and trekkers. There is as imaging story
concerned with the Buddha, which is commemorated by an ancient
stone slab and a Stupa with all seeing eyes. The carved image on
the slab portrays a popular legend that Lord Buddha in his
previous incarnation allowed himself to be devoured by a
starving tigers to save her and her cubs from starving to death. |